Homer
speaks of the weaving of the peplos in the Odyssey. In Archaic Greece, the
word referred to the rectangle of cloth
commonly worn by women. The Parthenon
frieze contained a relief of Athena
carrying a sacred peplos. The peplos was
woven at home out of wool; lengths were woven to suit the size of the wearer. The garment was created by draping or wrapping
the rectangle of cloth around the body and fastening
it with metal fibulae (left), or clasps. These were often worked with
decorative designs or stones. Linen
eventually became the fabric of choice for its flow and coolness, and could be
woven to a gauze-like weight.The Greeks
also imported silks from China. Preferring fabrics that would drape well, they unraveled silk threads from the Chinese goods and
rewove them into softer textures. Vegetable dyes were used, and embroidered and woven designs decorated borders.
Pleating was a popular treatment.
The Greeks
had a range of garments which were used alone or layered for warmth. The basic
element for both men and women was the
chiton, originally a tunic-like garment sewn at the shoulders and under the arm, but later wrapped around the body and secured
with pins at the shoulders. Variations in the placement of pins and belting developed into different styles of chiton
that are closely related to the changing
aesthetic in the development of Greek art and architecture.
The Doric
Peplos (Archaic period, to 500 BCE): women wore the chiton fairly closely
wrapped on the body, with a pin at each
shoulder. This is pictured as a patterned garment, probably of wool, and is called the Doric
Peplos.
The Ionic
Chiton (550 - 480 BCE, less often from 480 - 300 BCE): both men and women wore
this version. It was fuller, of a lighter
weight wool or pleated linen, with a sleeve created by pinning the opening closed from shoulder to elbow. Women wore it
long, and men both short and long. The Charioteer
of Delphi wears a form of Ionic chiton,
with the shoulder seams sewn shut.
The Doric
Chiton ( 400 - 100 BCE): narrower than the Ionic, again fastened with one
brooch at the shoulder, and without
sleeves. This was worn by both sexes, and was of wool, linen or silk. A less ostentatious version than the Ionic, it suited the
attitudes of restraint and moral rectitude prevalent in the late Classical Period. The chiton was belted by a
braided girdle, that could be crossed under the breast to hold the chiton in place.In the High Classical period
the Doric chiton was fashioned from a wider piece of fabric, the extra height folded down to cover the
torso. This overfold, known as the apotygma, could then be belted and bloused, such as is seen in the Porch Maidens on the
Erechtheion.